Bound for Borneo in search of orangutans, Dayaks and the perfect laksa

Join columnist Daphne Bramham in Borneo, Malaysia, Oct. 15 – 27

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There are only two places in the world where, if you’re lucky, you can see orangutans in the wild. One of them is Borneo.

Yet, even there, these reclusive, great apes are endangered as the rainforest is being chopped down to make way for palm oil plantations.

But in the magnificent, tropical habitat that remains, orangutans still make their nests in trees at night and crash around, swinging their large red bodies from limb to limb during the daytime.

I’ve seen gorillas in the wild in the mountains of Rwanda. They are magnificent, placid and playful, their eyes deep pools.

Still, orangutans — the “people of the forest� —– are my favourites and part of the reason I keep being lured back to Borneo. The last time I was there, one of the juveniles at the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre swung down from the treetops, hopped the fence intended to keep the humans away and promenaded along on the boardwalk just a few metres from us — almost close enough to touch.

Yet despite trips up different rivers and to several national parks, I have yet to see orangutans in the wild.

I’m hoping that in October, it’s fifth time lucky. And, I’m hoping some of you will come along with me on a 12-day Vancouver Sun adventure that will provide a number of opportunities to spot these gentle giants.

Our trip’s focus is on Borneo’s unique wildlife that includes pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, hornbills, exotic birds, gigantic and even carnivorous plants and an array of butterflies that even Disney animators couldn’t have dreamed up.

It was a university zoology course that piqued my interest in great apes and an introductory anthropology course that introduced me to Borneo’s indigenous peoples, who are known collectively as Dayaks.

My interest in Dayaks and their art has grown during the years. The motifs in their carving bear some striking similarities to those of West Coast designs. Some of their masks are reminiscent of New Guinea and Africa, while others would not be out of place in the souks of the Middle East.

(Collecting masks and carvings has been addictive. It started on my first trip when I bought a suitcase to accommodate the first of the masks. By the third trip, I succumbed and filled a quarter of a shipping container with an ironwood table, trunks, stools and carved serving bowls — all without breaking even my modest budget. On the last trip, some sanity prevailed. My purchases were small enough to be sent by mail.)

Many Dayaks continue to live in traditional longhouses even though they may commute to the city to work.

The best known of the Dayaks are those whose history includes headhunting. At Bidayuh longhouses, for example, many families have skulls among their treasured possessions.

Humans have lived on Borneo for more than 40,000 years. Some of the earliest evidence of prehistoric civilization is found in the Painted Cave in Niah National Park.

Like the caves in France, the presence of visitors changes the cave’s unique microclimate and that, in turn, results in damage to the prehistoric paintings. So, the cave is currently closed to visitors. Still, we’ll see why and how they lived on a visit to the park, the Grand Cave and the museum.

But our trip starts in the cosmopolitan bustle of Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian capital. KL, as the capital is called, retains an exotic feel even though it’s dominated by the ultra-modern Petronas Twin Towers that sparkle like gigantic jewel boxes at night.

Often overlooked, as travellers to Southeast Asia are more likely to go to Thailand to the north or Singapore and Indonesia to the south, KL and Malaysia are a fascinating blend of ancient and modern, Western and Eastern, Islamic and secular, urban and unspoiled.

And, of course, there’s the food. Malaysians are foodies whose various regional cuisines take full advantage of local ingredients and ethnic influences.

Among the best-known is Malacca-based Nyonya-Baba cuisine, a blend of Hokkien, Portuguese, Dutch, Indian, British and Malay. We’ll sample it before heading to Borneo, because what I dream about is starting at least one day perched on a plastic stool slurping down a spicy, redolent bowlful of laksa. It’s the local specialty in Kuching, the beautiful capital of Sarawak. Every chef and every cook does it a bit differently and family special recipes are prized and often guarded.

Yet regardless of whether you’re in Peninsular Malaysia, Sarawak or Sabah, there’s never a reason to be hungry. Day and night there are movable feasts with pop-up food stalls and food carts where for a couple of dollars freshly caught or harvested food is cooked in front of you — often over a tiny charcoal stove.

And, of course, there’s all the bizarre-looking fruits from jackfruit to rambutan to the infamous durian — the thorny “king of fruits� that’s so wickedly fragrant that it’s banned in most hotels and public transportation. (Raw or cooked, the best I’ve ever been able to do is choke it down and try not offend the person who has offered it as a rare and special treat.)

So, come October, I’ll be back to Malaysia, revisiting places I love and looking for new experiences that maybe, just maybe, will include spotting orangutans on their home turf. It will be fun and you’re welcome to come along.

dbramham@vancouversun.com

This tour will be an unforgettable mix of culture, anthropological history and wildlife led by Daphne Bramham, an experienced world traveller who is looking forward to sharing her enthusiasm for Malaysian food, culture and the indigenous orangutan with an exclusive group of travellers.

PACKAGE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Kuala Lumpur

• Eco-river tour through a tropical rain forest

• 10 nights accommodation including a renowned eco-lodge

• Expert Canadian guide, assisted locally

• Breakfast daily plus 11 meals

• Foodie tour

• All transfers, tours and flights

$5,860 Per person based on double occupancy. Airfare taxes included.

Book Today. Phone Adventures Abroad at 1-800-665-3998.

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Bound for Borneo in search of orangutans, Dayaks and the perfect laksa